Post by Darren Lim on Mar 15, 2004 23:24:42 GMT -5
[/li][li]Lights
From 2 Watts per US Gallon for low-light plants to 3 or more for light demanding plants. You choices are metal halide (MH), normal fluorescent tubes (FL) or PL lights (PL, looks like FLs but u-shaped).
MH can penetrate deeper into the water and are usually recommended for tanks taller then 2ft, and will last longer. However, MH are expensive and extremely hot.
FLs and PLs are cooler and cheaper. They are sufficient for tanks shorter then 2ft in height. FLs last about 6 months, PLs a year... after which their light intensity drops drastically. They need to be replaced at this point. PLs are a little bit hotter then FLs but easily manageble. PLs are also more compact... you can put more PLs over a tank then FLs.
[/li][li]CO2
CO2 is required for tanks with high-light. For low light tanks, CO2 is not a must, but plants will grow better with it. Your choices are:
Do-It-Yourself CO2
A simple and cheap concotion you can whip up with common ingredients available at the supermarket or grocer. Look in AQ's Aquatic FAQ, the recipe is there. The effective period is about 2 to 4 weeks. Not easily controlled. Not recommended for tanks 3ft long and bigger.
Pressurise Cylinder
A cylinder of CO2, with regulator, guages and a needle valve. Range in sizes from 2 litres to 5 litres. Depending on usage and size can last for months or years. Can be topped up at several LFS's at S$15 to S$25. A basic set will cost about S$150. You can also get a solenoid which you can connect to a timer to electrically turn on and off the valve together with the lights. A solenoid can put you back an additional S$100 or more.
Commercial Chemical
Commercially available and more complex version of the DIY CO2. More consistent then DIY, but still not controllable. Neither cheap nor convinient.
You also need a way to dispense CO2 into the tank. Commonly used ones are CO2 diffusers/atomisers and reactors. Diffusers/atomisers work much like an airstone, but produce much much finer bubbles.
Reactors are enclosed structures connected to the outlet of the filter. CO2 is injected into this structure and dissolved by the turbulent water movement before it exits via an outlet.
[/li][li]Substrate
Base fertiliser
The lowest layer of the substrate. Provides nutrients for rooting plants for 1 to 2 years depending on plant choice and planting density. A thicker layer is required for large plants that feed from the substrate heavily and less for small plants. Normally, ppl start with 1 inch at the front of the tank sloping to 2 to 4 inches at the back of the tank. Small tanks are too short for tall large plants, so do not require thick base fertilisers. Not completely necessary but very highly recommended for tanks with rooted plants. For tanks that have little plants that root into the substrate, it is not recommended as the substrate will decomposed in the long term without plant roots to provide oxygen.
Gravel
The topmost layer. If you are using base fertiliser, this layer should be about 1 to 1.5 inches thick. Purpose is to prevent the base fertiliser from fouling the water.
Without base fertiliser, the gravel should follow the thickness recommendations listed for base fertilisers if there are rooting plants. If not, then it's up to you.
[/li][li]Cooling Systems
Due to large amount of lighting, planted tanks in tropical countries tend to get too warm (30 degrees celcius or higher). To reduce heating, don't put your lights too close to the water surface. Use light holders to lift FL and PL lights it 3 to 4 inches above the water surface. MH lights are much hotter and should be much higher. Tank hoods have reduce
From 2 Watts per US Gallon for low-light plants to 3 or more for light demanding plants. You choices are metal halide (MH), normal fluorescent tubes (FL) or PL lights (PL, looks like FLs but u-shaped).
MH can penetrate deeper into the water and are usually recommended for tanks taller then 2ft, and will last longer. However, MH are expensive and extremely hot.
FLs and PLs are cooler and cheaper. They are sufficient for tanks shorter then 2ft in height. FLs last about 6 months, PLs a year... after which their light intensity drops drastically. They need to be replaced at this point. PLs are a little bit hotter then FLs but easily manageble. PLs are also more compact... you can put more PLs over a tank then FLs.
[/li][li]CO2
CO2 is required for tanks with high-light. For low light tanks, CO2 is not a must, but plants will grow better with it. Your choices are:
Do-It-Yourself CO2
A simple and cheap concotion you can whip up with common ingredients available at the supermarket or grocer. Look in AQ's Aquatic FAQ, the recipe is there. The effective period is about 2 to 4 weeks. Not easily controlled. Not recommended for tanks 3ft long and bigger.
Pressurise Cylinder
A cylinder of CO2, with regulator, guages and a needle valve. Range in sizes from 2 litres to 5 litres. Depending on usage and size can last for months or years. Can be topped up at several LFS's at S$15 to S$25. A basic set will cost about S$150. You can also get a solenoid which you can connect to a timer to electrically turn on and off the valve together with the lights. A solenoid can put you back an additional S$100 or more.
Commercial Chemical
Commercially available and more complex version of the DIY CO2. More consistent then DIY, but still not controllable. Neither cheap nor convinient.
You also need a way to dispense CO2 into the tank. Commonly used ones are CO2 diffusers/atomisers and reactors. Diffusers/atomisers work much like an airstone, but produce much much finer bubbles.
Reactors are enclosed structures connected to the outlet of the filter. CO2 is injected into this structure and dissolved by the turbulent water movement before it exits via an outlet.
[/li][li]Substrate
Base fertiliser
The lowest layer of the substrate. Provides nutrients for rooting plants for 1 to 2 years depending on plant choice and planting density. A thicker layer is required for large plants that feed from the substrate heavily and less for small plants. Normally, ppl start with 1 inch at the front of the tank sloping to 2 to 4 inches at the back of the tank. Small tanks are too short for tall large plants, so do not require thick base fertilisers. Not completely necessary but very highly recommended for tanks with rooted plants. For tanks that have little plants that root into the substrate, it is not recommended as the substrate will decomposed in the long term without plant roots to provide oxygen.
Gravel
The topmost layer. If you are using base fertiliser, this layer should be about 1 to 1.5 inches thick. Purpose is to prevent the base fertiliser from fouling the water.
Without base fertiliser, the gravel should follow the thickness recommendations listed for base fertilisers if there are rooting plants. If not, then it's up to you.
[/li][li]Cooling Systems
Due to large amount of lighting, planted tanks in tropical countries tend to get too warm (30 degrees celcius or higher). To reduce heating, don't put your lights too close to the water surface. Use light holders to lift FL and PL lights it 3 to 4 inches above the water surface. MH lights are much hotter and should be much higher. Tank hoods have reduce